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about | benefits | membership | rescue service | noise certificates | news | events | mods | forum | committee | equipment loans | noise certificates |
| Club | Members | Europa | Mods | Builders | Pilots | Links |
|
about | benefits | membership | rescue service | noise certificates | news | events | mods | forum | committee | equipment loans | noise certificates |
Questions answered:
1 Are there any other Europa FAQs?
Europa Aircraft maintain a FAQ on their website at:
<http://www.europa-aircraft.co.uk/>
Matt Dralle maintains a FAQ for the e-mail list, which is posted to the list around the beginning of every calendar month, and is also available at:
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator/?Europa-List>
2 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
New items, and correction or enhancement of existing items are welcome. Send your suggestion in e-mail to the Webmaster:
<webmaster@europaclub.org.uk>
Submissions most likely to be incorporated will have similar formatting to the existing FAQ, and display accuracy in spelling, grammar, and syntax. The ultimate deciding factor, however, will be the quality and relevancy of the information. The webmaster reserves the right to edit for brevity, clarity or humour.
3 How do I join the Europa e-mail list?
You can subscribe to the Europa e-mail list by following these steps:
4 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list?
To unsubscribe, simply follow the instructions above for subscribing but select the unsubscribe radio button. You will then be automatically removed from the list.
If your e-mail address changes, first unsubscribe the old account, then subscribe the new one.
5 List etiquette - what's that?
Like many things, an e-mail list functions best if all the users work co-operatively. There are some ways of doing things that will make sharing of information easier and more pleasant for all of us on the list. Adam Engst, author of the "Internet Starter Kit ..." books has made a very good summary of advice, and encourages its wider publication. I don't think I can improve on his list so here it is:
There are a number of things we can do to improve the quality of mailing lists for the benefit of all. Most of these recommendations are simple and require little extra work. If you'd like to read a more detailed rationale for these suggestions, check out the Mailing List Manners 101 and 102 articles published by TidBITS at:
<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tbser=1141>
Email Program Settings Suggestions:
* Turn off features (like VCards) that create attachments.
* Avoid sending HTML-formatted messages to lists.
* Send replies either to the sender or the list, but not both.
* Make sure the time is set properly on your computer.
Writing and Layout Suggestions:
* Don't use all capital letters for more than a word or two.
* Insert blank lines between paragraphs.
* Include full URL schemes, as in <http://www.tidbits.com/>.
* Surround URLs with angle brackets.
* Try to use proper grammar, spelling, and punctuation.
Message Content Suggestions:
* Never send unsubscribe commands to the list.
* Create and maintain descriptive subject lines.
* Quote original text sparingly in your replies.
* Don't include email attachments unless explicitly allowed.
* Use a short signature containing only essential data.
* Send welcome or congratulation messages via private email.
* Respect other people's news.
* Civility is always worthwhile.
Thanks for helping to keep mailing lists useful and pleasant places!
Other advice on making the most effective use of e-mail (in general, not just for lists) can be found at:
<http://www.webfoot.com/advice/email.top.html>
6 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list?
The person who replied to your posting chose the "reply-to-all" option available in many e-mail client applications. That will place both the original sender's name and <europa-list@matronics.com> in the "to" field in the header. Thus the original sender will receive the reply twice - once direct and once via the list.
People may tend to use "reply-to-all" because former Europa list servers required it, but the present Matronics server does not, so don't do it.
7 Why is Fred Bloggs telling me he's not in the office?
The message you recently posted to the Europa e-mail list was received by a "vacation mail" program. The person concerned had to leave her or his e-mail in-box unattended for some time, and thought that some provision should be made for urgent incoming messages.
The "vacation mail" software simply replies automatically with a chosen message to EVERY e-mail message that it receives. If the software is properly built, the message will get to the originator, not the e-mail list; the Matronics list has protection against mail loops caused by faulty "vacation mail" software.
If you are going to make use of a "vacation mail" or other auto-responder, please consider unsubscribing from the Europa e-mail list while you are away, so that people posting messages to the list will not be confused by unexpected messages.
8 How do I tell the list server my address has changed?
This is a two-step process.
(1) Before your old address becomes unusable, unsubscribe it from the list, as described in FAQ 4 above "How do I get off the Europa e-mail list?".
(2) Anytime after your new address is working, subscribe to the list, as described in FAQ 3 above: "How do I join the Europa e-mail list?"
If you perform step (2) before step (1), then you will not miss any messages.
Of course, you may wish to post a message to the list telling all your friends about the new address - but NOTE that the list server will not take any note of such messages!
9 Where can I get the full archives of the Europa e-mail list?
The browsable archive of e-mail list postings accessible through the Europa Club website is no longer maintained or updated (time & space constraints).
However, Andrew Sarangan has done a great service to the Europa internet community by creating a searchable archive online. You can interrogate it at:
<http://www.sarangan.org/europa_forum/>
Andrew created this from the fairly complete archive of list postings previously available for download from AvNet.
Matt Dralle also maintains an archive of list postings accessible from:
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator/?Europa-List>
This archive contains not only postings since Matronics took over the hosting of the list, but also all previous postings, supplied by Rowland Carson and re-formatted by Matt to suit the Matronics filing system.
10 Can I post to the list a warning about a virus?
STOP! Before you pass on any message warning about a virus (or worm, or similar), check with the several websites devoted to this topic that you are not propagating a hoax. It's usually wise to regard any such message as a hoax UNLESS it comes direct from someone you know and trust, AND describes his or her own PERSONAL experience of the alleged malicious software. Anything that says "send this to everyone in your address book" is almost certainly intended to infect your mind, not to warn about potential infection of your computer!
Check these websites before wasting everyone's time!
<http://www.f-secure.com/news/hoax.htm>
11 How do I join the Europa Club?
Contact the Membership Secretary for full information. As this is a volunteer job, the person doing it may change from time to time, but any e-mails addressed to:
<memsec@europaclub.org.uk>
should always reach the correct person.
12 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
The Europa factory formerly issued a newsletter from time to time (between 2 and 4 times a year). More recently that has been replaced by an insert in the Club newsletter (see below). Archives of the factory newsletter are provided on the Europa Club CD-ROM issued to all new members, and in the members-only section of the Europa Club website
The Europa Club puts out a newsletter (The Europa Flyer) 4 times a year (Mar, Jun, Sep, Dec) to all paid-up Europa Club members. Each issue normally contains a "Tech Talk" insert provided by the Europa Factory. Subscriptions are paid to "Europa Club", and are due 1st April each year. Enclosed with the March newsletter, members receive notification of their subscription status and a copy of the information currently held about them by the Club (in compliance with the UK data protection laws).
The Europa e-mail list, currently hosted by Matronics, is open to anyone to join. There is no charge. Like most things on the internet, the content is not controlled by anyone. Neither Europa Aircraft nor the Europa Club have any power over what goes on there, although representatives from both take part from time to time. It's simply a forum for discussion among Europa enthusiasts. Many of the useful nuggets of information appearing there have been reproduced in the Europa Club newsletter for the benefit of members not on-line. The list (and the Europa Club website, see below) was originally set up as a service to the Europa community by a Europa Club member. The list is now hosted and maintained by Matt Dralle, together with many other aviation-related lists, on the Matronics server at:
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator/?Europa-List>
Over time, Matt has increased the range of services provided - they now include archives, photo-sharing, and a Wikipedia.
Some people prefer to make a journey to the Post Office and collect their mail, rather than have it delivered to their home by the postman. For those who favour that operating model, Steve Dunsmuir has set up the Europa Owners bulletin board and website at:
<http://www.europaowners.org/>
Steve has thoughtfully arranged that any posting to his bulletin board is automatically echoed to the Matronics list, provided that the poster has used the same e-mail identity to subscribe to both.
Both the Europa Club
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk/>
and Europa Aircraft
<http://www.europa-aircraft.co.uk/>
have World Wide Web sites, and there are links between them. The Club pages are mostly open to all, but there is a section accessible only by paid-up Club members. Registration for access by members is at:
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk/registration/>
13 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
Many countries have a homebuilt aircraft or sport flying organisation, and you can get help and advice by joining.
Australia: SAAA (no website known at present)
Canada: RAAC (no website known at present)
Denmark: KZ Club & EAA 655 (no website known at present)
Finland: Finnish Aviation Association (FAA) <http://www.ilmailuliitto.fi>
France: Reseau du Sport de l'Air (RSA) (no website known at present)
Germany: OUV <http://www.ouv.de/>
Greece: Hellenic Experimental & ULA Association (no website known at present)
International: FAI - CIACA International Homebuilt Committee <http://www.fai.org/~fai/homebuilt>
Italy: Club Aviazione Popolare (CAP) (no website known at present)
Mexico: AAE (no website known at present)
Netherlands: NVAV <http://www.nvav.nl/>
New Zealand: Sport Aviation Assoc of NZ <http://www.saa.org.nz/>
Sweden: EAA 222 <http://www.eaa.se/>
Switzerland: Experimental Aviation of Switzerland (EAS) <http://www.experimental.ch/>
UK: Popular Flying Association (PFA), with local Struts <http://www.pfa.org.uk/>
USA: Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA), with local Chapters <http://www.eaa.org/>
14 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
Join the homebuilders organisation in your country (PFA, EAA, RSA, etc).
Subscribe to Kitplanes magazine <http://www.kitplanes.com/>
The homebuilt plane FAQ is posted regularly to the newsgroup:
rec.aviation.homebuilt
You should be aware that its answers relate to the situation in USA. If you live elsewhere, things may be different.
Several books are available on the subject.
Allan J Hall said:
My vote for most useful books would be:
Sportsplane Construction Techniques - Tony Bingelis
Firewall Forward - Tony Bingelis
Aviation Spruce & Speciality - Catalogue
Jim Campbell said:
Don't forget US Aviator's MASSIVE SportPlane Resource Guide... 740 pages detailing the REAL highs and lows of nearly 600 sportplane kits as well as over 40 "How-To" chapters covering everything from basic composite construction techniques to test flying and dealing with the Feds...
US Aviator is at 3000 21st St-NW, Winter Haven, FL, 33881.
1-800-356-7767
Rowland Carson said:
I personally have found the following books useful. Choosing Your Homebuilt - the one you'll finish & fly! by Kenneth Armstrong; Kitplane Construction by Ron Wanttaja; Composite Construction for Homebuilt Aircraft by Jack Lambie; and of course Moldless Composite Homebuilt Sandwich Aircraft Construction by Burt Rutan. All are now available from the PFA bookshop. Aircraft Spruce also do a kit of materials to go with the Rutan book, so you can try out the techniques on a small scale.
15 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
This is probably a bad idea. The aviation administrations in some countries will not permit it, anyway. But consider the possibility that you spend several years toiling to build the aeroplane, then find that:
OK, you can still probably sell it for more than the parts cost, but maybe you might have chosen to use your time differently had you known in advance.
-------------------------------
Kim Prout said (in relation to FAA rules for USA):
You could train for your PPL in a Europa, this would also count as training in taildraggers, although you would be best off training in taildragger first then transition train to Europa. If flying a tri-gear this would be no factor.
16 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
It depends where you live, but probably not. In most countries the Europa requires an ordinary private pilot's license (but see Kim Prout's comment below). The rules defining microlights or ultralights are slightly different in different countries (and in some places no licence at all is required to fly one), but the Europa would not meet most of them.
However, it appears that the rules for ultralight aircraft in Australia and Colombia may allow a Europa to qualify. Kit A005 is registered to a Colombian builder as UL-2057 (the normal registration prefix for Colombia is HK-, and no other country claims the UL- prefix). Likewise, in Australia, Europa kit 342 has been registered as an ultralight under the mark 19-3136 (normal Australian marks are VH-XXX).
As far as formal pilot qualifications are concerned, it's usually going to be in the same category as a Cessna 150 (single-engine landplane). In some jurisdictions, your licence will need to be endorsed for "retractable undercarriage" and/or "tailwheel". Since (in its most popular configuration) it is a monowheel taildragger, your flight safety will be enhanced by having some prior taildragger experience, and much more so by getting some training on the Europa itself from a pilot experienced on type before you launch solo. In UK, please take advantage of the PFA coaching scheme for type conversion training, which is helping to prevent low-time accidents and so keeps all our insurance premiums from going through the ceiling! In USA, consult your EAA Technical Counselor for flight advice.
------------------------------
Kim Prout pointed out a curiosity of the FAA regulations relating to pilot licences for experimental-certificate aircraft in USA:
Per FAA Riverside FSDO, R.C. Morton, a ruling was made several years ago by General Counsel which allows any type rating to fly any experimental, unless the operating limitations specify a certain rating for the aircraft. A typical limitation states that the pilot must be appropriately rated for the type aircraft (need a private pilot license) or a sign off in your log book by an instructor. In other words, you could indeed have any rating (glider, balloon, etc) and still pilot a Europa if you can find an instructor to train you in the Europa and sign your log book that you are qualified in type.
17 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
In the UK, the paperwork which clears your aeroplane for flight is the ultimate responsibility of the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) but they have delegated the day-to-day function of this to the PFA. So, as an aircraft builder in UK, you really have to join the PFA. In the US, you deal with the local FAA office when it comes to clearing the aircraft for flight. In UK, homebuilts do not get a C of A, but rather a "Permit to Fly", similar to that issued for a manufacturer's prototype. In USA, they are issued a C of A in the "Experimental" category.
In the UK, inspections of the work in progress are made by an inspector appointed by the PFA. Without evidence of such inspections, the aircraft will not be permitted to fly. Documentary evidence of the building process, preferably countersigned by an EAA "Technical Counselor" is required in USA.
Before the aircraft is cleared for flight, the responsible authority must be satisfied that it has been built correctly, to an acceptable standard of workmanship, that it is substantially the work of the builder (ie not built by a "hired gun") and that it matches the design to agreed tolerances. Any modifications made by the builder must also be approved.
Homebuilt aircraft are normally subject to operational restrictions until a flight test schedule has been completed. For instance, the documentation authorising first flight ("permit to test" in UK) may restrict test flying to a particular suitably qualified pilot (see "can I test fly it now?").
The Europa Flyer, #14 & #15, contains more detailed information about the UK paperwork requirements.
18 My Europa's complete - can I test fly it now?
Once the paperwork is complete (and that's another question) you'll be keen to get it into the air. However, you should NOT contemplate doing the test flying yourself, and especially not the very first flight.
I know, I know, you've spent more time with this aeroplane than anyone else and you know it really well, but that does not constitute a qualification. Nor does thousands of hours on 747s or even on jet fighters.
The person who does the first flight and early testing of your Europa needs to be:
If you have spent more time recently building than flying, then you may not be current on ANY aeroplane, much less meet the requirements above.
Your first flight as P1 in an aeroplane you built yourself does NOT need to be the very first flight of the aircraft, and is is likely to be much more enjoyable if a properly qualified test pilot has found all the squawks for you beforehand.
One of the driving forces behind the now successful EAA flight advisor programme was the realisation that many homebuilts crashed very early, often on the first flight, and very often with serious or fatal injuries to the proud builder.
When you're nearly ready to fly, please contact Europa Aircraft to help find a suitable test pilot. They will be only too glad to assist - you will not make good sales publicity if you bore holes into the ground with your Europa, instead of through the clouds.
The same advice holds if you've taken the aircraft out of service for significant modifications (flying surfaces, controls, engine or fuel system, etc), particularly if you're pioneering this particular modification. Get a properly qualified test pilot to prove that it's safe to fly as modified (and she or he will probably want to know that the mod has been approved by a suitably qualified engineer, so you might want to do that first).
19 Is the Europa hard to fly - will I need type training?
No, the Europa is not hard to fly. In the air, it behaves much as one would expect, and even low-time pilots can keep it right side up and pointed where they're going without difficulty. However, no matter how much experience they may have on other types, anyone new to the Europa can find that take-offs and landings become much more exciting than preferred.
Before going solo in any Europa, do get yourself checked out by a suitably experienced pilot. The monowheel Europa's unusual undercarriage configuration means that it requires slightly unusual handling techniques, even for those who are confident in conventional taildraggers. For instance, the usual habit in a taildragger is to raise the tail as early as possible in the takeoff run. In the Europa, the elevators have plenty of power to do this at low speed, before the rudder and ailerons have enough power to keep the show on the road. You are left balancing on a pin-point (the monowheel) with insufficent control to influence the future course of events. The most likely outcome is a ground-loop and a prop strike. And don't even think of doing the first flight yourself - see elsewhere in this FAQ.
No, it's not HARD, but it is DIFFERENT. Some people have taught themselves the differences the hard way, acquiring unwanted damage on their nice new aeroplanes. It's much less painful to get properly converted onto type. Your national aircraft homebuilders' association (see list elsewhere in this FAQ) can probably help, or if not, the factory should be able to recommend someone suitable.
20 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
The only way you can do that at present is to find someone who's built one and is willing to part with it. It is also possible that someone who has developed an epoxy allergy through careless handling and cannot complete the project may wish to sell a part-finished kit.
Ads for such Europas have appeared in the classified sections of general pilot-interest magazines (eg "Pilot" & "Flyer" in UK), and in the magazines of the homebuilder organisations (eg PFA's "Popular Flying" & EAA's "Sport Aviation"). The aircraft trading magazines such as Trade-a-Plane and GA Buyer <http://www.gabuyer.com> have also carried ads for Europas. And you can of course find them in a Europa-specific forum such as the Europa Club's "Europa Flyer" or the Europa internet e-mail list.
You should be aware that it is strictly illegal to have someone else build an aircraft for you, and claim it as your own work. Both the CAA and the FAA enforce this rule. That does not prevent certain specialist jobs (eg painting, avionics installation) being done by others, but you should be prepared to prove that you have done the bulk of the building yourself.
Also, if you buy an aircraft either completed, or on which someone else has done the majority of work, you may not be allowed to perform maintenance tasks on it unless you can demonstrate to the appropriate authorities that you are competent to do so (which you would normally demonstrate by building the whole thing yourself!).
21 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
In July 1997 Laurent Charvet of Europa Aviation said, of the "pre-XS" kit:
With the "old" Europa kit, I believe the quickest time that we know of is just over 920 hours and the longest 1,500.
Rowland Carson responded by quoting the following hours to complete from Europa Club members:
900 1200 1500+ 1580 2000 2000 2000 2000 2000+ 2300 2400 2400 2500 2500 ~2800 2900 2900 3000 3000+
Some of the longer times will be by first-time (ie slower-working) builders, or perfectionists repeating stuff they weren't happy with on first try, or people doing lots of extra detail for a concours-winner "show plane" - or even all of the above!
22 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
Return to list of questions
John Kackay posted these figures (US $) in August 1995:
Kit delivered 19250
Trailer kit 750 (approx, no firm price given)
Rotax 914 12500
prop 1500
Inst/avionics 10000
Upholst/paint 1000
-----
Total 45000
-------------------------------------------------------------
Douglas Wagner posted these costs (UK pounds) in August 1995:
Type: Item: Total (incl VAT):
Stage 1 empennage 3,442.75
Stage 2 wings 4,641.25
Stage 3 fuselage 6,462.50
Powerplant Subaru 118 hp 6,462.00
Fitting kit 2,937.50
overflow bottle 39.95
rectifier/regulator 41.13
slipper clutch 323.13
vacuum pump 675.63
Propeller electric, variable speed 1,997.50
Instruments altimeter 199.75
air speed 141.00
vertical speed 129.25
turn and slip 282.00
gyro horizon, RCA22-7 625.10
directional gyro, RCA-11A-8 559.30
standby compass 70.50
Westach hour meter 2A10 41.42
Avionics Terra TX760D Comm 928.25
Terra TRT250D Transponder 1,028.13
Terra height encoder 207.48
Antenna kit 17.63
GPS 705.00
Electrics wiring, switches etc 528.75
navigation lights 176.25
strobe 229.13
landing light 0.00
intercom 30.55
Finish paint 587.50
paint labor 2,750.00
interior trim 587.50
Trailer 1,568.63
workshop rent 12 mths 3,938.76
Total: 42,355.69
my labor cost 1000 hrs 10,000.00
Minimum Realistic Sale Price 52,355.69
------------------------------------------------------------
In April 1996 Carl Pattinson posted these costs (UK pounds):
Stage 1/2/3 kit #12,500
Rotax engine kit # 9,000
Average Instrument Fit # 3,000
(ASi, VSI, Alt, AH, TS, GPS, Com Radio, switches)
Cushions/Carpet/Trim # 500
Paint and misc parts # 1,000
Registration & test flying # 1,000
Value Added Tax # 4,725
This adds up to about #32,000 on the assumption that you use no professional labour (eg for painting) and many builders in reality will end up spending nearer 35 - 40,000.
I certainly would not consider building a Europa unless you can lay your hands on at least #30,000. I believe insurance will be in the region of 1,500 - 2,000 fully comp, per year
-----------------------------------------------------------
In July 1996 Tony Renshaw posted these costs for Australia:
The tail kit will cost you about $750.00 AUD to sea freight out. Then you'll have to insure it which will cost about $52.00. Then customs clearances which will be about $120.00, and road transport and its insurance increment from the port to your home. I recently got a quote from Europa for a part share in a container for any future stages I may choose to purchase. The tail kit by the way cost me $6000.00 approx (2900.00 Pounds).
A wing kit 3800.00 Pounds Packing 40.00 Crating 115.00 Insurance 16.00 Delivery approx 423.00 Fuselage Kit 5200.00 Packing 60.00 Crating 435.00 Insurance 21.00 Delivery 696.00 If both purchased together Wing kit 3800.00 Fuse " 5200.00 Packing 100.00 Crating 435.00 Insurance 36.00 Delivery 1078.00 If both were sent in a container Wing kit 3800.00 Fuse " 5200.00 Packing 160.00 Insurance 36.00 Delivery 700.00
23 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
Tony Krzyzewski wanted to know how big a garage would be needed when he got his Europa built in New Zealand, so he asked the factory to measure the monowheel on the standard factory trailer:
The absolute dimensions of the Europa on its trailer, measured at Kirbymoorside, are as follows.....
Height 84 inches 214 cm Width 81 inches 206 cm Length 19 feet 9 inches 610 cm
Much later, John Moran was puzzled by the height quoted and asked other people to check. Roger Anderson said:
I keep my Europa G-BXTD in a garage which has a door aperture 82" wide and 75" high. It is a fairly tight fit but I manage alright. It makes life a lot easier having a push tow bar on the front of my car, and I have painted white lines on the drive just outside the garage to act as wheel guides. I un-hitch just before the fin encounters the doorway and hand push the trailer on the jockey wheel for the last bit. No problem even though I have a Skyflash strobe on the top of the fin.
This supports John's suspicion that an error was made in the original measurements, and that 84" should be 74"!
24 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
Not necessarily. Other designs of trailer have been available in UK, including several enclosed types. Northwick Manufacturing, Wade Trailers, and Schofield Aviation have all advertised in the Europa Flyer at various times, but none of these appear to be supplying trailers at present. You can also design and build your own, as described in Europa Flyer #12. EAA's Experimenter carried an article on trailers in Vol 18 No 4, April 1998, pp 11-15 & 40-41.
25 What tools will I need to build a Europa?
John J Moran wrote:
The list in the Europa manual is minimal in the extreme so I've come up with a more expansive (expensive?) list.
Some tools are only used a few times and are costly; try to borrow them if possible.
In addition to common tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, drill bits etc.) kept by the typical auto and home owner, I have used the following:
Hand Tools:
Angle finder (aka pendulum level) for rigging
Center punch, automatic
Clamps - a variety is needed, from spring clothespins to C clamps.
Cold chisel - to cut control cable
Compass with interchangable pencil and scribe points
Countersink, 45 degree
Dial caliper - optional but very useful
Files, flat and round. Several sizes needed.
Hacksaw
Hand reamer, 1/8" to 1/2", flutes about 4.5" long
Hole saws: 1.75", 2", 2.25", 3 1/8" (borrow?)
Hot glue gun
Level - carpenter's level and line (aka pocket) level
Long board sander - as used for autobody work
Nicopress tool for 3/32 cable (borrow?)
Paint pen, optional, available at art stores
Pens, nylon tip and felt tip marker
Pad saw (aka back saw)
Pop riveter
Razor scraper - holder for single edged blades. Useful for many things
including as a mini-squeegee when filling pinholes.
Razor saw (Xacto). Good for trimming glass if past knife trim stage. Many
other uses.
Respirator, with activated charcoal filters
Rivet squeezer for 470 style rivets (borrow?)
Scribe, carbide tip
Spackling knife - 8" as used with wallboard, for filler.
Staple gun - used to attach sandpaper to spline
Steel rulers, 6" and 18", optional but useful
Straight edge, 48" or longer. Type used for wallboard works well.
Surform plane - for blending ends of glass where they overlap, etc.
Tape measure
Tap wrench and 5mm x .8, 12mm x 1.75 taps (borrow?)
Trouble light (aka drop light), fluorescent preferred
Tubing cutter
Utility knife
Wire crimper for electrical terminals
Wood chisel, 1/2"
Power Tools:
Bench sander - optional but VERY useful, especially on Tufnol. Handy for
fitting the footwell floors and fuselage rear bulkhead too.
Dremel - must have. The fiberglass re-inforced carbide disks work great
for fiberglass cutting e.g. fuselage trimming. The drum sanders work well
on glass. The wire brush removes foam and micro from glass prior to
bonding. Expect to change motor brushes sometime during project due to
heavy usage; check brushes from time to time or you'll end up buying a
new tool.
Drill press - required
Electric drill, 3/8" variable speed. Having two will save some time since
often one must drill holes and then enlarge or countersink them.
Heat gun - optional. A hair dryer may suffice.
Orbital sander - saves time, not required.
Right angle attachment (close fit) for electric drill.
Router - handy if you happen to have one
Shop vacuum - required
Things you make:
Fillet shaper - cut one end of a tongue depressor down so that it is
about 3/8" wide and round the end to make a nice fillet when applying
flox or micro in a corner. Wipe it off when you're done and re-use.
It will last forever, preserved in epoxy.
Flap sander: a piece of wooden dowel with a slot to hold sandpaper worked
for me. Used with electric drill to fit the control stick.
Round sander: a piece of plastic pipe with sandpaper glued on using rubber
cement.
Sanding spline, made from .093" Lexan (polycarbonate) left over from wing
inspection ports instead of plywood - for flexibility.
Sanding blocks, wood - 36 grit and 80 grit. To fit paper for long board
sander as found at auto stores.
Shop Aprons
Tool rests - to temporarily hold epoxy covered brushes and squeegees.
Foam blocks work fine for this.
Mini-sanders - tongue depressors with sandpaper rubber cemented to them.
Make several with different grits.
Consumables:
Aluminum sheet, 10 mil. Get several square feet for making more precise
patterns than using paper. Can be cut with scissors. I found this at
the local newspaper where they use the sheets in the printing process.
Fish line
Hot glue sticks
Kitchen film (Saran Wrap or equivalent)
Masking tape
Nuts, 10-32 (100ea) and 1/4"-28 (20 ea) from the hardware store. Use
for temporary fit up to avoid wearing out bolts with the sticky nuts.
Peel ply, 2" - optional but saves time & effort
Plastic sheet, 4 mil or 6 mil poly for layup of glass tapes, etc. Also use
to cover work bench to avoid epoxy sticking.
Rubber cement - used to attach sandpaper
Sandpaper
Syringes - for epoxy injection. Use a very short piece of vinyl tubing
slipped over the nose to seal to the surface while injecting. Can often
be washed and re-used.
Rubber gloves (9 mil) with thin (4 mil) vinyl gloves to go over them. Use
string gloves as liners to absorb perspiration.
I'm not done building yet. Any suggestions for additions to the list?
26 Has anyone designed a fuselage support for use during building?
Yes - at least all of the following builders have:
Miles McCallum - see Flyer May 1999
Chuck Popenoe - see EAA Experimenter May 1999 and:
<http://members.bellatlantic.net/~cpops/cradle.htm>
Roger Sheridan - see Europa Flyer #17 and the Europa Club CD-ROM
Bob Fairall - see Europa Flyer #18
27 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
Most aeroplane designs are not beyond the capabilities of the average handyman, but some skills will almost certainly need to be learnt or at least sharpened. This is not surprising, as one of the official reasons given for allowing people to build their own aeroplanes is "education". Few people who have not previously built a foam & glass aeroplane will be familiar with the techniques, but most will reach an acceptable standard after some small practice pieces.
28 How will I know I've built it right?
Keep in close contact with your PFA Inspector (USA: EAA Technical Counselor) and she/he will make sure you do everything to a suitable standard - may even help you do some things first time around!
You may be required (and it's probably a good idea anyway) to make & keep small samples of each batch of layup that you do, and these can be tested later to check your build quality.
29 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
Graham Singleton said: Burt Rutan described the best check I know. 6 plies of BID, laid up on a waxed (and buffed off) flat surface. Squeegee out as much resin as poss without allowing air to creep in. If too much pressure is used air can be sucked in as the fibres relax. Allow to cure, cut to an accurate 10" X 16" rectangle and weigh. 297 gms is a bit light and might have air voids. 310 gms is perfect. 340 gms is too heavy. If your aircraft was built to this ratio of resin to glass it would be around 40 lbs overweight. (18 Kgs if you must )
30 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
John J Moran wrote, in answer to a query about which resin system causes least reaction:
I developed an allergy to Aeropoxy which is advertised to be less prone to provoke an allergic reaction. Tried E-Z Poxy and was allergic to that too. Tried West and wasn't allergic to that, nor am I allergic to Redux. It's a matter of personal chemistry, so buy a small amount and try it before commiting. For me, a respirator wasn't sufficient so I had to get a Hobbyair to allow work to continue.
The allergic reaction is apparently to the amines used in the hardner. Each epoxy seems to use a slightly different amine so one's personal reaction to each may differ. I became so sensitized to Aeropoxy that a couple hours in the garage with the wings which had cured for over three weeks would cause a major reaction, so apparently the amines out-gas for quite a while. Touching the cured wings also caused serious problems. Washing the cured parts with a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water - required before filling anyway - eliminated this sensitivity entirely.
Also, many are or become allergic to latex so beware of reactions to the gloves. It can be confusing to sort out a latex allergy vs an epoxy allergy since one tends to be exposed to both simultaneously. Avoid gloves which use latex powder, cornstarch powder is less likely to provoke an allergy and powderless gloves are available. Nitrile gloves are a good alternative. Use string gloves as a liner to minimize softening of the skin due to sweat since this increases absorption through the skin. Use vinyl gloves over the latex gloves when dealing with wet epoxy since latex is not totally impermeable to epoxy - witness the stain which comes through latex gloves when exposed to wet epoxy.
The level of precautions required once one becomes sensitized is prohibitive, but the alternative is to terminate the project. Some become so sensitive that termination is the only alternative.
Err on the side of caution and avoid becoming sensitized.
31 What engines are available for the Europa?
At present Europa Aircraft only supply and recommend Rotax engine packages. Other engines are available from independent sources.
Rotax 912 80bhp (flying)
Rotax 912S 100bhp (flying)
Rotax 914 115 bhp, turbocharged (flying)
NSI Subaru 100bhp & 118bhp (flying)
Mid-West rotary (flown in at least 2 Europas)
Jabiru 2200 4-cyl 80bhp (flying in Jabiru; first flown in Europa June 1998)
Jabiru 3300 6-cyl 120bhp (flying in UK & Australian Europas)
JPX 4TX90/A flat-4 90bhp (Europa installation being developed by builder in Italy)
Sauer 90bhp (flying in Austria)
Limbach 2000 EO (Europa installation being developed by Columbian builder)
Wilksch WAM-120 CITEC 120bhp turbodiesel (Europa first test flight 1999 - still awaiting PFA approval)
<http://www.wilksch.com>
BMW RS1100 (has flown in UK & elsewhere with various reduction drives)
The majority of Europas now flying use the Rotax 912, which has proved very reliable in the Europa (and many other aircraft types); although several of the other engine packages are flying in other designs, not enough are in service in Europas to make statistically significant comparisons. Engine installations usually differ from one design of aircraft to another. The size of propellor that can be used, the cowl shape, and in particular, changes in cooling arrangements, mean that experience in other designs may not transfer directly to the Europa situation.
32 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
The so-called "LA" mod, quite early on, increased the usable internal width, but not only at seat level as might be first assumed.
Ron Swinden said: Sit in your pride and joy dressed for the great outdoors (freezing airfield!) and try waggling the stick and pumping the rudder pedals. The mod is not about L A's but it is about shoulder room.
Phil Hawker said: You need to try it out very carefully, and consider what it might feel like after a long cruise. It is certainly less roomy for the very tall than some of the other kits (such as the Glastar) but then it has many other advantages over these, such as fuel economy and all-round elegance. It is much roomier than some of the more direct competition such as the Pulsar. Ivan Shaw is 6'3" (I believe) and designed it to be comfortable for him.
The new XS has more legroom, but headroom may still be cramped if you have a long body, and there is no straightforward way to increase this (one UK builder, Graham Singleton, is contemplating a substantial modification which could provide the answer). If you have any doubts then find a finished example and try at least to have a long "sit" - whilst making the obligatory "brrmming" noises of course.
At least one tall UK builder sold his share because of discomfort during long flights - which is a real pity after so many hours of work.
The factory is very helpful on this issue and will always suggest a visit and test flight - I'm told that one 6'7" prospective builder left convinced that he would be comfortable, although I'm baffled as to how he must have been proportioned!
33 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
Mark Talbot wrote: I speak from experience when I say that the Europa is capable of operating from 300 mtr grass most of the time one up. The snag, as I discovered, comes when something is not quite right and you have failed to detect it. There is absolutely no room for error and, at a certain stage of either takeoff or landing, you are committed and there is no room to change your mind.
Graham Singleton summed it up very accurately. And the truth is that there is simply no room for error. If you are lucky you will never need that room - but ... but ... but ... but ...
My advice has to be, find yourself a longer strip! In round figures I would be happy with 550m in an ideal world of green farm fields.